Sunday, August 8, 2010

Crumbling Castles

Hrad Likava
TRENCIN, SLOVOKIA Hiking the trail, just a few meters from my room, into Tatrzanski National Park seemed like a good idea until it started to sprinkle. Although it didn't deter other hikers, I thought I could do without a good soaking and decided a road trip through Slovakia a better idea. You can easily drive from one end to the other in a day. I headed south along the winding road through the Tatra Mountains to Poprad. The sun broke through as I turned west and followed the Vah River Valley to Zilnia. On both sides, the country-side is lush and green, rolling foothills, the rapid flowing Vah river, framed by the Tatras; rich in recreational possibilities; fishing, hunting, hiking, and skiing. Along the way are number of crumbling castles from the Hapsburg dynasty. I pulled over at one, Hrad Likava, and idled away a couple of hours hiking around the castle and the immediate area. The whole of Slovakia is quite stunning but the towns seem impoverished, in shambles, with broken down, graffiti plastered apartments, clothing hung out to dry on rusting balconey railings. I had to pass on several towns because I couldn't find a hotel, ending up in Trencin, a city with a beautiful castle and certain possibilities.