Mere Mortals Couldn’t Have Done This

Church of Saint George

LALIBELA, ETHIOPIA: I visit the eleven monolithic stone churches of Lalibela, built in the early 13^th century by King Lalibela. As my guide and I approach the first church, the Church of Saint George, my guide drowsily says, “This is my church. I was baptized here. I go to mass here every morning from 5:30 to 6:30. It’s how I start my day.” I understand now why he sounds only half awake. In a hardly audible monotone voice, he continues with his script, “Laibella built these churches with the help of angels.” “Angels!” I interrupt, trying to spark a little life in him. “Yes, angels. I will explain. Lalibela was a good king, who was poisoned by his brother. When he died his soul went to heaven where he met God, who told him that he had to return to earth and build these churches. God explained exactly how He wanted the churches built. After three days, Lalibela’s soul returned to his body and he rose from the dead and began building the churches. To help him complete the task, God sent angels to help him. The next church we visit, he explains, as though reading directly from his script, “At Lalibela’s direction, the angels built this church in just one night. “Is this something you actually believe?” I ask. “Yes, of course,” he says, suddenly awake. “It’s the truth. It’s part of our religion like the death, resurrection, and ascension of Saint Mary.” He’s awake now and that should bode well for the rest of the tour. I must admit, it’s hard to imagine mere mortals carving these massive churches out of stone.